The Burrito: Jumbo Combo Burrito
The Burrito Builder: Ruby's Burritos
Where Is It: Romeoville, IL. Lat / Long: 41'65''44 N : 88'08"77 W. 673' Alt
The Link: http://www.rubysburritos.com/
I got a hot tip from a friend in the Chicagoland area, that I'm missing out on a solid burrito investment. Those types of financial advice show up everyday in my inbox; but this one came with some credible backing; a second referral! At that point, I begin to do some investigation. Checking out the yelp review for the location was somewhat helpful, but as always I'm skeptical when I notice the restaurant is really in the midst of an industrial park. I found myself in the area for a few days, and felt the hunger pains. It was time to go snooping around the "jewelry store" Ruby's Burritos, of Romeoville, Illinois.
As I pulled up, my first impression was that the sign was wrong. Yes, I was in the midst of an industrial park. However, the crossroads about a block behind me also had gas stations and donut stores, and this quaint brick strip mall did also have other active tenants. Why would the sign be wrong, you ask? Its right next to Ruby's Pancacke House. I shit thee not. Again, this doesn't mean burritos won't abide. In fact, the typical Chicagoland faire of griddle fry burritos, probably means a short order breakfast hut isn't a bad proving ground. But as I look to the edge of the small, nondescript glass door entryway, I spy a neon Mexican beer sign. I'm in.
As I enter, I am gleeful. Before me lies the beautiful bounty of a large, short order kitchen grill, positioned awkwardly with a cash register and counter to delineate the hands of the gods. The smell alone pulled me to a table. Traditionally you find the sizzled meat sound accompanying the warmth of frying meats. Here, there was only the angelic scent of fried breads. There is no question of it. If anyone has spent any time around a true Mexican bakery, there is no questioning that wonderful wafted scent of fresh fried breads. And instead of the sizzle of crackling mystery meat; the voice of the almighty maker of the burritos beckons to me in Spanish... in a true dialect of west-central Mexico. It almost bring a tear to my eye, except the stabbing hunger pain, and anticipation of the feast keeps me sharp and true. I knew by the scent typical street level food was not my only options to fill my plate with. As I make small talk in Spanish, I glance over my shoulder to see two Hispanic families eating in their post-church feast. Its good. Its very, good.
The menu contains typical faire. Mega burritos, dry and wet, 4 typical meats [chicken, pork, chorizo, beef], tacos up and down the line, horchata in a big dispenser at the end of the counter. Nothing looks too far out of place. Of course, I have come for the burritos, but I can not deny my tummy the pleasure of something fried… something special… something sope! After a few minutes of lackluster Spanish chit chat about the weather and holidays, we get down to brass tacks. I inquire about the Giant Burrito and Special Burrito categories. The Special side of the menu is the more glamorous meats; lengua, barbacoa, carnitas, steak and egg, wet [suizo’s] varieties. Few flash-fry burrito outfits will offer up a true carnitas or barbacoa burrito, so I was interested initially there, but once I eye-hustled the Giant Burrito section, I made up my mind! Puerco gigante y pollo!
The cook laughs as he starts flipping bowls of marinated meat to the flattop. We continue some small talk about the restaurant while I decide to take a sope in al pastor as well. The rest of the menu is well rounded for a short order spot. Chimichangas and several dinner platters are also on the list, as are tostads, gorditas and small seafood section [all shrimp except for a lone red snapper! maybe next time?!?!] I slide on down the line but I am quickly whisked to a table where my tray is dropped for me, along with a fresh scoop of house salsa and pickled veggies! Son of a gun, that's a welcome mat!
I take a paper menu in hand and roll over to see some breakfast choices as I wait for the feast. I am offered some chips for the salsa, but by now I’ve motored through half the pickled foods. The chips are ok, but the house salsa is worth the admission. I actually saved back most of the bowl for use on the food as it arrived, simply because of the sharp flavor. Ruby’s does a very smooth, blended salsa, more reminiscent of a broth with puree; than of a typical Tex-Mex chunky-monkey pile of tomatoes.
As my plates appeared, I sat in disbelief at the sope. I know this is a burrito blog, and to humble myself for but a moment is in order. I have had many of the fried food groups in my short life; several have tried to convince me I was eating a sope when it was really an open face gordita, or that it was a gordita when it was just a dumpy half-burnt tortilla; but this it… this was a splendid sope! There is indeed an art-form to keeping fried and delicious light and airy. Donuts are about the best example most people regularly encounter, and only then when its fresh out of the fry bins with a dusting of powdered sugar. Funnel cake consistency is the key to creating the best sope I’ve ever ordered in America. The crispness of the outer shell was sharp, but the interior was still very soft, spongy and about 20 degrees past doughy. This is very complicated to pull off in a traditional restaurant setting! If you flash fry the dough, then oven warm it to prep it for tabling, you can taste the oil as it collects to the center and bottom edges, and you notice the internal texture will change. On short order, its hard to give the time to get good results to this perfection, as you often have the same set of hands running the flat top as you do the fry bins. To finish it off, the beans are warm and fantastic, and the dough base is nice and thick--- damn near a Belgian style waffle! I had to give it its due; the splendid sope lives here!
Back to the burrito. The main event.
The skinny on the el gordo seems to be a 10” flour tortilla, which is pressed and flat iron grilled, built out with 2/3’s cup meat [mine was a double dipper, so chicken and pork x 2/3’s each], about 2/3s cup lettuce, 1/3 cup shredded cheese. Refried beans are applied with a spatula or flat knife on the tortilla first, before contents are added… this is interesting to note as most places will scoop and poop the beans, these work themselves too evenly in the folds to be dolloped in place. That’s about it. That’s not to any disappointment….
Obviously the center piece of the burrito is meat. Meat cooking is not something fast prep counters do well with. Most times, meat is going to be a precooked, frozen, reheat; or, will be a flash fry with a sauce bath to make up time. Its not a marathon, but my burritos require something more than a sprint! At Ruby’s you’ll get an easy 10k jog!
The pork used for the meat was hand cut, easily attested to as there were numerous fat and small cartilage trimmings in there. If I ordered a $50 steak I’d be upset, here, I am on 7th Heaven! From what I could discern, the pork is likely a home-brew adobo with ground, not whole, chilies; possibly a touch of cumin, and a bit of cayenne pepper to help bring more color and flavor. To me it felt more like a cold rub of dry ingredient, then simmered and reduced. To do flavors like this, most places will pot boil large quantities in liquid blends, then re ladle reduced sauces to embolden the flavors. Its noticeable when you hit the texture of the meat knowing how it was prepared. This is different. This is delightful! It yields a deep flavor that isn't about heat as it is about nurturing full bodied flavor. Well done.
All in all, this was well worth the travel time to get. Few places warm might heart with bowls of sliced pickling's, then punch me in the gut with a great burrito. I often sit down expecting one thing or another, walking past it, I’d never know the heart of the matter inside. Hit up Ruby’s Chi-town. You deserve it.
